Actually, I can’t conceptualize any real difference among organic or non-organic seed, even if the non-organic seed was produced by using fertilizer and insecticides. All that did was create a healthier parent plant for the seed. This new non-organic seed that I am going to plant, even if it was raised b using insecticides, certainly can not transfer any of those insecticides to my garden.
You will notice the discussion is about seed, not seedlings. I have a definite aversion to planting seedlings in the garden if I do not know their source. The reason for this is simple. Since insecticides, fungicides, etc., are not allowed in an organic environment, I will not take a chance that insects or pathogens are introduced into the garden on plant’s roots or leaves.
Safe, healthy seedlings come from seed which the gardener knows to be viable, within acceptable germination rates, and of the correct variety for that geographic location. The primary source of seed within three criteria are seed which have been harvested from the prior year’s crop, from one’s own garden. We know these crops to be exemplary or we would not have saved the seed. Another reason to save seed from your own garden year after year, is that variety of that species is an heirloom, and may not even be carried in a seed catalog. I have a variety of cherry tomato that is impervious to root nema todes, and I have been saving seed and regrowing this variety for over 40 years.
Probably the most personal of reasons for saving and planting seed year after year, is that it is a variety your family loves and cannot find in any store or catalog. This year I produced a Waltham Butternut squash that weighed over 5 1/2 lbs. This was certainly an anomaly. However, I have saved every seed, and will try to do even better next year.
Now that most of the seed we have harvested this year is dried and stored for next year, it is a good time to examine any remaining seed to make sure it is in date and viable. All seed packets should contain a “packed for” date, which is the basis for seed viability. There are some types of seed that are only viable for less than one year: Onion and parsnip. Viable for two years: Corn, soybean, salsify. Three years: Bean, leek, parsley, pea. Four years: Carrot, mustard, pepper, tomato. Five years: Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, lettuce, okra, pumpkin, radish, spinach, turnip. Six years: Beets, eggplant, most melons, squash. Seven years: Celery, cucumber and endive.
Sometimes, even if a certain batch of seed is out of date, and the germination rate is uncertain, you ca do a test to determine viability. Take ten seeds (each will represent 10%), place o a damp paper towel, and fold over several times. Place in a plastic bag and seal. Set in a warm place for the number of days stated on the package for germination. Then open and check for seeds that have swollen and begun to germinate. This number is the germination percentage. If, for example, the percent is 50%, you can plant twice as many seeds in a row than usual and hope for the best. In fact, this does not work well when the percentage is below 70%, as it leaves long portions of the row empty. When planting old seed into individual pots, just plant more so that you will get enough to germinate.
After all of the seeds you harvested this year are absolutely, positively dry, place them in plastic bags, seal tightly to prevent air intrusion and place in large glass jars that can be tightly sealed. Place these jars in a cool place, but open them every three to four weeks to allow for air transfer. Remember, seeds are living organisms and need air just as we do.
Pat Biggerstaff is the gardening columnist for the Daily News. She lives in Middlesboro. To comment or suggest topics for future columns, e-mail editor@middlesborodailynews.com.
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