Alexandria is about a three hour drive from Cairo, making it an ideal weekend getaway from the hustle, bustle, and pollution from the millions of cars in the congested streets of Cairo. Founded by Alexander the Great, Alexandria has a much different "feel" than most other Egyptian cities. Alexandria was once the home to many Greeks and Italians. The Gates of Alexandria (when entering from the Cairo side) display Greek writing and large columns (similar to the columns I have seen in Greece) and the architecture of many buildings throughout the city as well as the choice of restaurants display the influence the Greeks and Italians once had over this ancient city.
We entered Alexandria around sunset. To my surprise (and relief) the traffic wasn't bumper to bumper. In fact, driving through the streets of Alex (as many Egyptians often refer to the city) reminded me of a trip down Cumberland Avenue (though our speed was much higher than anyone is legally allowed to travel down Cumberland Avenue). With cracked windows and a breeze through my hair, driving into Alexandria and enjoying the scenery, I was overcome by a carefree feeling. My attention drew to the many statues — resembling Greek gods and goddesses — and fountains throughout the city… and then the water. As I saw the Mediterranean Sea my jaw dropped. This was definitely not the first time I had ever visited the Mediterranean Sea but it seems that every visit is the same. I'm overcome with the beauty of the sea and the endless bright blue but translucent hues of the water — absolutely gorgeous — and every time, it's like witnessing it for the first time.
The highway is right beside the water so we pulled over, parked, and walked along the sidewalk (between the highway and beach) to watch the sun set. Young boys were perched on large rocks by the sea fishing and couples walked hand in hand. It was definitely winter in Alex because the streets were nowhere near crowded like I recall them being in the summertime. In the distance we could see the sun begin to set. The sky was filled with beautiful purple, orange and pink hues and shadows were cast upon the water as the sun set behind a castle in the distance. We were lucky because on this particular day the weather was nice and warm (it had been really cold the past few weeks), so with a slight breeze and a light shawl and the smell of saltwater in the air, I was thoroughly enjoying this moment of tranquility.
After walking for sometime along the water, we decided it was time to grab some dinner — the purpose of the trip — to eat exquisitely prepared seafood. We found a place in a dark alley, and while in any other country I would think the location to be completely sketchy, in Egypt it was not at all surprising. I sat down and waited while my friend went to see and select from the fresh seafood. Our dinner consisted of crab, mussels, two types of shrimp, calamari, and several different side dishes (baba ganoush, fatoush, beets, tahina, Arabic salad, yogurt salad, and pita bread). It was a very satisfying meal. Afterwards we headed to "Nady Mohandiseen" (Engineer's Club) a country club-ish place along the Mediterranean Sea exclusively for engineers and their friends (hence why I was allowed in). We walked along the Corniche, admiring a new bridge that had been built over part of the Mediterranean Sea and watching the waves softly crash onto the shore and then returned to the club for tea and lemonade before our departure back to Cairo.
The atmosphere of Alexandria was calm, serene, and relaxing — a complete switch from the chaos of living in Cairo. I thoroughly enjoyed the few hours we spent in Alex and hope to go back one day as there are many sites to see there (Citadel of Qaitbay, The Roman Amphiteathre, Pompey's Pillar, and Bibliotheca Alexandrina – The Royal Library of Alexandria). My memories of Alex are no longer of a hot, humid city packed with millions and millions of people (though this may still be the case in the summers), but rather a beautiful Egyptian city with a strong Greek influence, quite and calm, alongside a breathtakingly beautiful sea.
Karema Eldahan is a Middlesboro native living in Egypt. She shares this experience through her Middlesboro Daily News column. Contact her via e-mail at editor@middlesborodailynews.com.
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