It would be my guess that the practice of growing new plants from cuttings began many years ago when an ancient ancestor threw an arm full of willow sticks onto the ground while clearing space for a garden. A mature, woody piece of willow will produce roots if left in contact with damp soil just about every time with little or no effort. As this primitive man observed this process, it inspired him to try it on other species in his domain.

Initiation of roots from cuttings of plants has always seemed a difficult and mysterious process to most gardeners. However, it is quite simple physiologically by adhering to only a few basic rules. Under the bark of most woody plants and herbs lie root primordia-bud like structures hat will spring into activity when in steady contact with moisture.

In general, all plants that have a cambium layer (the layer between the bark and the wood), can be propagated by cuttings. Genera which cannot be renewed by cuttings include grasses, orchids, lilies and their related species. In addition to willow, one of the easiest plants to replicate by cuttings is tomato. In late summer, as your tomato plants are nearing the end of their productive lives, cut diagonally, tomato suckers and set into moist soil. You should have a new healthy crop in production as the parents die.

Vegetative propagation from cuttings has one important advantage over seeding. The plants produced are carbon copies of the original plant — identical in genetic makeup. Plants grown from seed, despite our best efforts, may have subtle variations from generation to generation, Junk happens!

When you propagate by cuttings, three basic types of cuttings are involved: Softwood cuttings, half-hard or greenwood cuttings and hardwood cuttings. The finest type, a softwood cutting, is a new section from a stem or twig where lignification (wood formation) has not yet taken place. A common example (other than our tomato example), are cuttings of geranium made from stock plants in early spring. As the weather breaks, new shoots will form and these may be cut from the parent plant and inserted into a rooting medium. The cut should be made at a slant, to expose more of the cambium to the rooting medium. Cuttings should usually be 4”-6” long and trimmed of all but the top leaves. Before planting any cuttings, it is a good practice to dip the cut end of the plant into a good commercial rooting hormone powder. This hormone will give the cutting an extra supply of certain growth stimulating chemicals which occur naturally in plants.

Half-hard or greenwood cuttings are made from shoots of the current year’s growth, after they have begun to firm up but before the become woody. The way to check for proper stage is to bend over a shoot. If it crushes rather than snaps, it is too green. It should snap cleanly and not bend. If it bends over and stays together, it is too old.

Roses are one of the easiest plants to propagate by half-hard cuttings. A stem that has just bloomed is usually perfect for rooting. Cut off the flower and leave the cutting with 4-5 leaves intact. Use of a rooting hormone is necessary, as sometimes roses root poorly depending on species.

All half-hard cuttings MUST be rooted in the shade as they will not tolerate sunlight. When enough roots have formed, they may be treated as you would an other tender seedling.

Quite often, for hard to transplant or hard to start from seed varieties such as Ilex (holly), half-hard cuttings are an easy way to propagate new stock.

Most woody plants are best propagated from hardwood cuttings, which come from twigs or stems that have been defoliated by winter frost. We take advantage of the fact that these woody plants store food to be used for next year’s growth. By tricking the plant, we will use this stored food to help produce roots. To do this, as you take cuttings to be rooted, make sure you keep the tops aligned. Tie the 6-10 inch cuttings with twine and bury them with the tops downward in damp sand, peat or sawdust. Take the cuttings after defoliation occurs. Store the cuttings in a shed or garage where the temperature will not rise above 35-40 degrees. Moderate freezing is okay. By changing the polarity of the twig, the plant has been tricked into sending its stored energy into the rooting end.

In spring, just as woody plants begin to show leaves, dig up the bundle. Because of reversing the twigs, the bottom end (which has been buried as the top) will show they tiny white beginnings of roots. Plant this end in a light, rich soil and treat as any other new seedling. Keep it watered.

Pat Biggerstaff is a Middlesboro’s local expert organic gardner and weekly columnist. Contact her via e-mail at editor@middlesborodailynews.com.