I have written about soccer before and I find myself gleefully doing so once again. It was once my dream to attend a soccer game at the Cairo Stadium. As an outside observer during my first trip to Egypt, the stadium, with its large sky blue dome, looked like so much fun. Finally, during my last trip to Egypt, I was privileged enough to attend an Ahly v. Barcelona match. Although my team (Ahly) lost, it was one of the best nights of my life. 

Soccer to Egyptians is a life force. While most people consider the main necessities of life to be food, water, and shelter, Egyptians proudly add “futball” to that list. It’s too bad that the Egyptian national team is barely World Cup worthy. Though they are no strangers to the African Cup (where they are the current African champions), Egypt has not qualified for the World Cup since 1990. This brings us to the most recent media coverage regarding my beloved Masr (Egypt). Egypt vs. Algeria – World Cup 2010 qualifier game held in the one and only great city of Cairo.

The Egypt vs. Algeria qualifying game was a highly anticipated match. This is partly because Algeria is an archrival of Egypt and partly because this was finally Egypt’s shot. Based on the point system, Egypt would have to beat Algeria 3-0 to make it to the World Cup. Having played soccer for 11 years, I can tell you that against an evenly matched competitor, this isn’t easy. So Egypt was the underdog of the game. But it was a good game, and though Egypt didn’t score the necessary three points, they did score two, bringing their overall points to 13-13. Tie. Rematch. Sudan.

I have never wanted to go to Sudan more in my life than I did wanting to attend the rematch game. Tickets were cheap too. But alas, plane tickets were not. However, it made no difference that the game was not in Egypt. The streets of Cairo were crazy. Egyptian flags were everywhere – draped like a cape over the backs of the youth, attached to the trunks of cars, or flying from a pole as flags usually do. My job unofficially closed an hour early so that everyone could beat the traffic rush and make it home in time to watch the game. Madness filled the streets. Joy. Chaos. It was amazing and so much fun to observe (except when it came time to catch a cab home from the gym, after which it was just annoying because there were no cab drivers working… they were holed up in front of a television somewhere watching the match).

Personally, I did not watch the match. I wasn’t in the mood to go to a café or an outside venue like most of Egypt. I was exhausted from work and did not have the energy to face the madness that was public Cairo.  The government encouraged citizens to watch the game outside by offering free public transportation (on buses) during the hours immediately before and after the game. Alternatively, my satellite at home did not pick up any local channels showing the game. However, I was kept in “the know”. Every time Egypt did something good I could hear the hoopla (chants and yelling) of my neighbors and the people on the streets. When the game was over, I heard the “boos” and cries of my fellow Egyptians. That’s right. We lost.

The aftermath of the game is a bit hazy. It’s very hard to distinguish the facts from the rumors. US and other media have portrayed both Algerians and Egyptians as violent hooligans. It is rumored that Egyptians threw rocks and blunt objects at Algerian players when their bus arrived in Cairo for the first match. It is rumored that some were injured. It is rumored that Algerian fans were buying knives from the black market in Sudan before the game. It has been said that Egyptians fan were injured, some seriously so. Stories of street violence in Cairo after the second match, particularly in front of the Algerian Embassy, have circulated while stories of violence to Egyptians in Algeria and Egypt Air offices being burned down have also circulated. Fact or fiction? I don’t know. In Egypt, high government officials are quoted saying things about Egypt and against Algeria that have only escalated the matter. It is believed that the government officials only added fuel to the fire because it detracts attention away from the corruption and other problems Egypt as a country faces. However, I can personally say that I have not witnessed any violence or chaos post the second match (or the first) nor have any of the Egyptians that I know. Maybe it happened and maybe it didn’t, but I can guarantee you that it wasn’t to the extent to which the media would have you believe.

So, the point of the story here is that soccer is a big deal in Egypt. It’s amazing because I have never experienced such excitement over a sporting event in the US. Which, by the way, though I was present and very excited the last time MHS won State (in fact, we sang “We are the Champions” all the way home, honking the car horn and waking up all of Bell County once in home territory), it just does not compare to the pride Egyptians have in their national team and top sport. There’s just something about Egypt, something so riveting and special. And Egyptians are proud people.

Karema Eldahan is a Middlesboro native living in Egypt. She shares this unique experience through her Middlesboro Daily News column. Contact her via e-mail at editor@middlesborodailynews.com.